The drip irrigation is very popular especially in orchards, whether they are small, at home, or large farm level. Basically what allows drip irrigation is to keep the substrate around the crop or the plant in question, constantly wet in its proper measure, this allows us to avoid what is often called ” water stress ” which is basically the suffering experienced by the plant for lack of water.
This method of irrigation through drippers, consists of pipes, buried or not, that has a dropper in certain places (basically next to the plant or crop that we need to irrigate) and what it grants is a slow and localized irrigation that allows the plant is a much more optimal growth condition, but it is also an ecological system since, although its installation can be expensive at first, it allows us to save large amounts of water.
Also Read: Top 6 Ways to Filter Water From Plants
I believe that the best advice on drip irrigation by AmaTop10, is that you do not leave your installation for the last moment. The material you need:
- A programmer is a timer that is screwed to the tap and regulates the passage of water according to a schedule and frequency of irrigation.
- Regulator reduces and stabilizes the irrigation water pressure. It is screwed directly into the water outlet of the programmer. Some models incorporate self-cleaning filters that prevent impurities from passing through the water.
- Tubes of Two types are needed: one of thicker section (from 12 to 18 mm in diameter), which works as the main distribution pipe or circuit, and a thinner one (4 to 6 mm microtubes) to make branches or branches that will carry the water to each plant.
- Droppers are the final distribution valves of the water; they are connected to the microtubes by directly pricking or coupling at their ends.
- Links and auxiliaries serve to join the tubes, derive, divide and adapt them to the surface of the terrace, and to carry the water to each plant. The most common are T, elbows, crosses and links, and should be chosen depending on the thickness of the tubes.
Now after material follows the step of installation:
- Attach the programmer to the water inlet and then screw the pressure stabilizer.
- Insert the main tube in the pressure regulator (it can be fixed with clamps or Teflon tape) and extend it from the pots closest to the water intake to the furthest one; do not cut the tube to the end. You can adapt the tube to the shape of the terrace by cutting and making joints with elbows. The main pipe must run alongside each container, following the designed scheme. You can use T or cross-links to connect different sections or to derive a splice when there are containers that are not online.
- Once the main tube has been extended, and all the necessary connections are arranged, cut the excess tube and place a stopper (16 mm) on the end.
- Once the mainline has been assembled, place the microtubes: using a punch (usually supplied with the drippers) drill the main tube at the height of each container and place a connector or link (T or cross) to fix the microtubes to the main pipeline. Then, cut sections of microtube with enough length to reach each container with slack (you can always cut, and it’s better than splicing); Repeat the operation at the height of each container.
- Place the drippers along the microtubes (in the case of the planters) and at the ends of each one (pots); prick the drippers on the substrate if they are the stake, or fix them with pegs.
- Only the timer has to be timed with the irrigation cycles. For the summer months, it calculates an average of 14 to 20 minutes per day depending on the type of dropper (from 2 to 4 liters/hour).